Kursumli An, Skopje (Lead Inn caravanserai)

A historic monument at the Old Bazaar, downtown Skopje

In the sources, Kursumli an is mentioned as a memorial of Mula Musledin Hodza. Kursumli An acts impressively and delightfully with its monumentality, decoratively built walls and the numerous domes in shape of pyramids. Today, the complex of the Museum of Macedonia is located within the Turkish bath. The Yard of Kursumli-an during the summer period is being used for organizing of cultural manifestations: dramatic performances, concerts, literature readings…

This caravanserai, today known as Kursumli An (Lead Inn), is located in what used to be the hardware market. No reliable data are available as to the time of its construction. Sources mention it as a memorial of Mula Musledin Hoja, son of Abdul Gani, in 1550 (956 hijra).

Judging by the caravanserai's resemblance to other similar buildings built in Skopje and other centres of the Ottoman Empire during the 15th and 16th centuries in terms of its architectural style and design, its construction is presumed to have taken place in the end of the 15th or the first decades of the 16th century. Unlike other caravanserais in Skopje, Kursumli An has excellently preserved its horse-stable, situated in a separate yard at the west side of the inn. The stable was accessed through two entrances, one from the inn, and another separate entrance from the street. Its capacity was around 100 horses which were receiving special treatment and care.

The upper floor of the caravanserai had relatively small rooms for overnight stay for travellers. Some of them had a fireplace. Like in other caravanserais, the ground floor was used to accommodate cattle.

In the square yard there is a large fountain around which the guests used to rest, especially in the evening, upon completion of the daily duties.

The inn performed its above mentioned function until 1878 when it was converted into an infamous prison. The first prisoners were Macedonian revolutionaries fighting against the Turkish reign. The area around the fountain was full of gallows where capital punishments were executed before the eyes of the prisoners.

As early as before World War II, Kursumli An was turned into a Lapidarium (collection of stone monuments) of the Archaeological Museum, and has remained so until today. Among the numerous remnants of the material culture of Macedonia, which are stored and partly exhibited here and whose number keeps growing, are various sculptures, tombstones and other monuments uncovered in ancient localities around Macedonia.

From Stara Skopska Carsija (The Old Skopje Bazaar) by Kosta Balabanov